Brewed on the Farm
Few beers capture the Belgian brewing spirit more than Saison. Largely produced in the French-speaking Wallonia region in the southern part of the country, Saison is French for “season.” Brewed on farms during late spring for “saisonniers” (seasonal workers), the beers were put away until harvest time. Saisons are top-fermented ales that are crisp, well-carbonated, thirst-quenching and refreshing. Original versions were quite low in alcohol – 2.0 to 4.0 percent ABV – as workers needed to be able to continue working during the day and to not drink too heavily in the evenings. While modern Saisons are made in a variety of strengths, most are in the 5.5% ABV range.
Beer for field workers?
Saisons from Brasserie de Blaugies
Yes, if the alternative was water. Since microorganisms, and their disease potential, weren’t discovered until the mid to late nineteenth century, most water sources were polluted to some degree. In Europe, alcoholic beverages such as wine and beer were consumed instead. Potable water was hard to come by, especially out in the fields, so farmers would homebrew low-alcohol beers for their workers. They would haul the casks or bottles out to the fields and serve them with meals or as refreshment during the day. Because the beers were brewed on the farms, with ingredients the farmer had on hand, there were significant differences in the beers. Thus, there are few “rules” related to Saisons.
The Beer with a Wild Side
Saison as a style of beer is a bit hard to define, because (in typical Belgian style) it was never a style to begin with. Because Saisons were essentially home-brewed on the farms, typically with ingredients readily available to the farmer, each version tended to be somewhat unique. One of the contributors to their uniqueness is the fact that many Saisons have elements of tartness and funk to them. We really noticed this on a Bruz beer tour of Belgium in 2021. We went to a lot of rustic, farmhouse breweries where they used to brew in barns. These beers had obviously picked up some wild yeasts and bacteria along the way. Because they had not aged as long as Lambics or Flanders ales, the tartness and funk were not as pronounced as in full-blown sours, but were definitely present.
Saison Aromas and Flavors
While different Saisons display different characteristics based on where and by whom they were made, there are some common elements. Most are between golden and amber, many with an orange color, although there are also some dark Saisons. Saisons tend to be highly carbonated – usually as a result of bottle-conditioning. Yeasts that produce phenols and esters give Saisons their aromas and flavors of spice and fruit. And, as mentioned above, Saisons often have a bit of funk from wild yeasts and lemony tartness from bacteria. Extra hops and hard well water, with bicarbonates and sulfites, give Saisons their characteristic bitterness. Finally, the are typically dry in the finish, making them very drinkable.
Saisons and Food
Saisons are an excellent match with a wide variety of foods. When in doubt, pairing food with a Saison is rarely disappointing. They are crisp, refreshing, dry and not overly hoppy, so they go well with moderately light foods as well as more robust menu items.
Roasted poultry, red meat and anything grilled – try a Saison with it. Bouillabaisse and other bold seafood dishes work well and it is a splendid beer with salads. Spicy, funky cheeses like Humboldt Fog pair well, as do washed-rind cheeses.
Popular Brands of Saison
The gold standard for Belgian Saisons is unquestionably Saison Dupont. Brasserie Dupont makes a number of Saisons – eleven to be precise. Saison Dupont (6.5% ABV) is the international favorite – especially in the United States. Made with a legendary yeast (reputed to be “touched by God”), it is a clear, coppery gold beer with a dense white head. Fragrant and bitter, it is a perfectly balanced thirst-quencher. Saison Dupont Vieille Provision is a different and stronger version of Saison Dupont and is considered the most classic example.
Brasserie Dupont’s other flagship beer is Moinette, which comes in blonde and brune (brown) versions. It was Dupont’s original flagship and, despite Saison Dupont’s popularity in the U.S., it is still Dupont’s biggest seller in Belgium. Other Dupont beers of note are its Biere de Miel (a Saison with honey), Foret – made with organic ingredients, and Biolegère, a 3.5% ABV Saison which is more like the traditional Saisons brewed for field workers.
Other Belgian Saisons
Saison Fantome; Green Tea & Spinach Saison; Fantome with Halloween Snacks
While Saison Dupont is the most famous Saison, there is a growing trend toward more “authentic” old-style Saisons, that feature wheat and/or Spelt (an old form of wheat). Saison D’Epeautre is one of five Saisons from Brasserie de Blaugies, one of the best brewers of these “old style” Saisons. Also of note is Saison Fantome d’Erezee. Fantome is the flagship of eccentric owner Dany Prignon’s collection of around 25 different beers. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the brewery in 2021, where we tasted a number of great beers, including a bright green beer made with green tea and spinach. And, Saison de Silly is well-known for its excellent, and authentically amber, beer. It is amber because pale malts weren’t available until the middle of the 19th century. It is also brewed with extra hops to extend its shelf life.
Outside of Belgium, no brewers have embraced the Saison style like American craft brewers have. Some of the best from American craft breweries include:
Bruz Till the Earth
Till the Earth (and variations) – Bruz Beers
Classic (and Wild Classic) Saison - Blackberry Farm Brewery
Hennepin - Brewery Ommegang
Fruit Stand Classic Farmhouse Ale with sweet Hedelfingen cherries – Casey Brewing & Blending
Tank 7 and Saison Brett – Boulevard Brewing Company
Sorachi Ace – Brooklyn Brewery
Saison and Tropic King – Funkwerks Brewery
Carnevale - The Lost Abbey
Solera Saison - Westbound & Down
Final Summit - Outer Range Brewing
Saison - Allagash
Take your taste buds on a wild ride and try some different Saisons today.
