Strong Golden Ales - The Bad Boys of Belgian Beers
A style of Belgian ale that is quite similar to a Trappist Tripel is Strong Golden ale – epitomized by Duvel. Originally made by a brewery that only made dark ales, Duvel remained a dark beer until 1970, when it became a pale strong golden beer. Duvel was the first beer made in this style and is still the standard by which all are judged.
The Duvel Product Line
The Duvel name is Flemish for “Devil” and it is pronounced “DOO-vul” not “Doo-VELLE.” It is brewed by Duvel-Moortgat. The company is owned by the Moortgat family, which started Brouwerij Moortgat in 1871. Originally, in 1918, Duvel was a dark strong ale called Victory Ale, to celebrate the end of WWI. The name was changed to Duvel in 1923. As the story goes, a beer taster at an event remarked “this is a real Devil of a beer” and the name stuck.
Why “The Devil”
While the beer looks like a mild-mannered Pilsner, Duvel comes in at a substantial 8.5% ABV. But what really makes it devilish is how well it hides its alcohol. A Belgian friend once told me that if you have a few Duvels at the bar and get up off your bar stool, you will fall on your rear end . . . “because the Devil got you!”
Simple Ingredients, Complex Flavors. Duvel is made from simple ingredients: fermentables are Pilsner malt and dextrose (corn sugar) which is added prior to primary fermentation; hops are Saaz and Styrian Goldings, and yeast is a private strain that originated from McEwan’s in Scotland. Despite the simplicity of the ingredients, Duvel’s uniqueness comes from its fermentation, re-fermentation and conditioning techniques.
After five to six days of primary fermentation, the brew is dropped to just below freezing (30ºF) for three weeks to mature. After this, it is filtered and primed with corn sugar and the original yeast before bottling. After bottling, it is stored at 72ºF for two weeks, where it re-ferments in the bottle, which carbonates the beer. Finally, it is cold stored at around 40ºF before its release. The whole process takes about 12 weeks start-to-finish. It is sold fresh and many aficionados age it further at home for three to four months. Duvel is best served at 45ºF or at cellar temperature (55ºF).
Duvel’s crisp spiciness, subtle complexity and massive white head are the trademarks of one of the world’s truly great beers. It has a firm body, a dry fresh crispness, high carbonation, distinctive hop aromas and flavors, and fruity yeast notes that are reminiscent of oranges, apples and (especially) pears. It is a beautifully balanced and finely crafted beer that does a good job of hiding it 8.5% alcohol.
Duvel’s Old World Craftsmanship and Modern Technology
Similar Strong Golden Ales
As Duvel’s popularity increased, a number of other breweries began producing similar products and their differences make them worth trying, including some of the newer barrel-aged versions (Yes, there’s a barrel-aged Duvel and it rocks!). Strong Golden Ales have become the “bad boys” of Belgian beers. With the style’s market leader named “Devil,” other breweries frequently name their versions after demons, pirates and various wicked entities to associate themselves with the style and to reinforce their “badass” images. Some good examples of Belgian Strong Golden Ales include: Satan, Lucifer, Judas, Piraat (pirate), Brigand (highwayman), Deugniet (Rascal), Sloeber (Joker), Delirium Tremens (complete with pink elephants), Stille Nacht and Bush Prestige.
Bruz Beers’ Diablo Colorado and Hellraiser - Two of Our Strong Golden Family.
While Trappist and Abbey Tripels have a religious personas, Strong Golden ales have a more wicked image. They are the bad boys of Belgian ale.That has carried over to a number of American craft breweries that are making Strong Golden Ales in the Belgian tradition.
At Bruz Beers, we make several Strong Goldens, including Hellraiser, Diablo Dorado (“Golden Devil” in Spanish), Diablo Colorado and Gnomeboy.
Other American Strong Golden Ales include:
Brooklyn Brewery - Brooklyn Local 1
North Coast Brewing - PranQster
Russian River - Damnation
Allagash - Confluence
Alesmith - Horny Devil
Ommegang - Duvel Rustica
Lost Abbey – Inferno
Funkwerks – Deceit, Level 13
Rock Bottom Brewing - Devil’s Thumb
Holy Mountain – Bonne Nuit
Jolly Pumpkin – Oro de Calabaza
There are many more, of course, but these lists are a good place to start. As you taste your way through the many variations of Strong Golden Ales, you will get a broader sense of why what appears to be simple can be quite complex in the right hands.
