Saison - Farmhouse Ale

Few beers capture the Belgian brewing spirit more than Saison. Largely produced in the French-speaking Wallonia region in the southern part of the country, Saison is French for “season.” Brewed on farms during late spring for “saisonniers” (seasonal workers), the beers were put away until harvest time. Saisons are top-fermented ales that are crisp, well-carbonated, thirst-quenching and refreshing. Original versions were quite low in alcohol – 2.0 to 4.0 percent ABV – as workers needed to be able to continue working during the day and to not drink too heavily in the evenings. While modern Saisons are made in a variety of strengths, most are in the 5.5% ABV range.

Beer for Field Workers?

Yes, if the alternative was water. Since microorganisms, and their disease potential, weren’t discovered until the mid to late nineteenth century, most water sources were polluted to some degree. In Europe, alcoholic beverages such as wine and beer were consumed instead. Potable water was hard to come by, especially out in the fields, so farmers would homebrew low-alcohol beers for their workers. They would haul the casks or bottles out to the fields and serve them with meals or as refreshment during the day. Because the beers were brewed on the farms, with ingredients the farmer had on hand, there were significant differences in the beers. Thus, there are few “rules” related to Saisons.

 The Beer with a Wild Side

Saison as a style of beer is a bit hard to define, because (in typical Belgian style) it was never a style to begin with. Saisons were essentially home-brewed on the farms, typically with ingredients readily available to the farmer. Each farmer’s Saison (or Saisons) tended to be somewhat unique, and the better versions attracted the better workers.

One of the contributors to their uniqueness is the fact that many Saisons have elements of tartness and funk to them. We really noticed this on a Bruz beer tour of Belgium in 2019. We went to a lot of rustic, farmhouse breweries where they used to brew in barns. These beers had obviously picked up some wild yeasts and bacteria along the way. Because they had not aged as long as Lambics or Flanders ales, the tartness and funk were not as pronounced as in full-blown sours, but were definitely present.

Saison Aromas and Flavors

While different Saisons display different characteristics based on where and by whom they were made, there are some common elements. Most are between golden and amber, many with an orange color, although there are also a number of dark Saisons. Saisons tend to be highly carbonated – usually as a result of bottle-conditioning. Yeasts that produce phenols and esters give Saisons their aromas and flavors of spice and fruit. And, as mentioned above, Saisons often have a bit of funk from wild yeasts and lemony tartness from bacteria. Extra hops and hard well water, with bicarbonates and sulfites, give Saisons their characteristic bitterness. Finally, the are typically dry in the finish, making them very drinkable.

Saisons and Food

Saisons are the perfect match with a wide variety of foods. When in doubt, pairing food with a Saison is rarely disappointing. They are crisp, refreshing, dry and not overly bitter, so they go well with moderately light foods as well as more robust menu items.

Roasted poultry, red meat and anything grilled – try a Saison with it. Bouillabaisse and other bold seafood dishes work well and it is a splendid beer with salads. Spicy, funky cheeses like Humboldt Fog pair well, as do washed-rind cheeses.

Saison and Cheese - A Match Made in Heaven!

Popular Brands of Saison

The gold standard for Belgian Saisons is unquestionably Saison Dupont. Brasserie Dupont makes a number of Saisons – eleven to be precise. Saison Dupont (6.5% ABV is the international favorite – especially in the United States). Made with a legendary yeast (reputed to be “touched by God”), it is a clear, coppery gold beer with a dense white head. Fragrant and bitter, it is a perfectly balanced thirst-quencher. Saison Dupont Vieille Provision is a stronger version of Saison Dupont and is considered the most classic example.

Brasserie Dupont’s other flagship beer is Moinette, which comes in blonde and brune (brown) versions. It was Dupont’s original flagship and, despite Saison Dupont’s popularity in the U.S., it is still Dupont’s biggest seller in Belgium. Other Dupont beers of note are its Biere de Miel (a Saison with honey), Foret – made with organic ingredients, and Biolegère, a 3.5% ABV Saison which is more like the traditional Saisons brewed for field workers.

Other Belgian Saisons of note are:

Saison Surfine

Waterloo Recolte

Saison Fantome

Saison 1900

Saison D’Epeautre (one of five Saisons from Brasserie de Blaugies),

Saison de Silly

Outside of Belgium, No Brewers Have Embraced the Saison Style Like American Craft Brewers

Some of the best from American craft breweries include:

Bruz Till the Earth is a classic Saison made with spelt

Till the Earth - a new release from Bruz Beers; a traditional Saison made with spelt and a special Saison yeast

Saison Nelson, Harvest Saison, Beet Saison - Bruz Beers

Classic (and Wild Classic) Saison - Blackberry Farm Brewery

Hennepin - Brewery Ommegang

Fruit Stand Classic Farmhouse Ale with sweet Hedelfingen cherries – Casey Brewing & Blending

Tank 7 and Saison Brett – Boulevard Brewing Company

Sorachi Ace – Brooklyn Brewery

Carnevale - The Lost Abbey

Solera Saison - Westbound & Down

Final Summit - Outer Range Brewing

The list goes on and on, but these are Saisons that are definitely worth trying.